So, my TA's lasted about less than a year(well over a year ago) and need to get rid of them asap. They are horrible. I was looking into CX. I few of my friends have them on non volvo car and seem to like them. Anyone care to lay an opinion on them? Longevity, Ride quality, Quality of the product. Any input would be great. 

Hi!

Please help me to find the right LPT engine upon my criteria. Im collecting info about RN whiteblock specifics pretty hard for about a month, and it seems I have all but one pieces of puzzle, and cant see the whole picture to solve the rebus. I have browsed through dozens of topics and articles on this topic on VS, SS, MVS, TB as well as local nordic volvo forums + part number investigation in VIDA however the info is incomplete and controversial. This was a hot topic a couple years ago, most content is now archived, thus I dare raising this question here again, as the VS is the citadel of technical/performance knowledge.

Please identify, what is the LPT engine code(s) where the 147 mm connrods are installed from factory. 

Multiple sources claim the 147 mm rods were paired only with 90 mm stroke cranks.

If so, there is only one HPT engine: the 3219 cc B5234T3 late version (closer to 2004) found in S60/V70 T5;

and couple of  2435 cc LPT engines: the B5244T3 (exhaust cam VVT) found in wide range of P2 platform S60/V70 ; and its second reincarnation: the B5244T4 (dual VVT) that seems to be very rare, at least in EDM,

all sharing 90 mm stroke crankshafts. 

Is this 90 mm stroke myth or true? I believe some people here knows this for sure and please comment, if there are any else nuances. 

Thanks a lot! 

I have been searching all over for a decent cat back or whole system but I don't want to spend over a thousand, so most likely it would be a catback. I saw the OBX one looks like junk to me it said it had 1.75 inches of pipe in some areas. I was like wtf no thanks. I found Fox exhaust but they are in Germany and heic sportive I don't want to buy the whole body kit made for the exhaust. Any options out there? I'm not going to take it to jim Bob muffler shop and have him hack the exhaust all to poo

2000 s40. three hoses go to the turbo control valve. which ones do i take off an hook to MbC? is it the one from the wastegate and then compressor housing? any brands you guys prefer?

The Build

- Supplies

 + Dura Choice Dual Range Pressure Gauge $11        https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G0096RM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 + 1/4 NPT to 1/4 barb $3

 + 10ft of 1/4 hose from hardware store $4

 + >1ft of 1/8 silicone hose from harware store $.5

 + Vacuum couplers from O'rielly's  $3

 + Vacuum cap from hardware store FREE

 + Zipties $1

 + Spring clamp $.5

Total: $23

Build Process:

Everything is pretty simple except for the vent tube I implemented at the top of the gauge as opposed to the stock brass pin made for venting the gauge. I did this because the gauge is glycerin filled and any variation in altitude pressure or temperature would cause the gauge to read inaccurately and would require venting while installed in the car which is not something I am willing to do while driving. My solution to this was pretty simple, I removed the stock brass cap in the rubber plug on the top of the gauge and replaced it with a 1/8 vacuum coupler and attached the 1/8 silicone hose to the other end of it and looped it a few times to ensure that no glycerin would escape. I held to hose in place with zipties and placed another 1/8 couple at the other end of it with a vinyl vacuum cap over the other end with a small hole cut into it, so that it may act as a restrictor for any large particles trying to enter the hose. both ends of said hose are clamped with zipties. This will allow constant venting, ensuring accuracy.

Finished Product: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1BA2ycq3XDxJe0doTb5GBYMuunkNBCtqEtA not a .bmp, promise ;)

I will post an update when installed, for now, is this the best economy gauge you've seen? Also, mods, if this is in the wrong category, I'm sorry. Also, the reason I used a link is because for some reason the images were not being uploaded in house. (sorry!)

Hi Guys! My name is Rob. I am a huge Volvo fanatic. I would love to get any and all feedback!
------------------------------
Car: 1998 S70 T5, Black
Engine: 2006 S60R B5254T3
Turbo: 16T converted to Hybrid 19T kit from ARD 
Intake Manifold: 1998, ported and port matched for RN
Exhaust Manifold: 2003 Japanifold
Exhaust System: Catless turbo back OBX
Transmission:  AW 50-55N (5 speed auto)
-----------------------------------------------------

I'm currently rebuilding my 1998 Volvo S70 T5. I blew the head gasket one day on the freeway after the idiot gauge told me I had coolant, when in fact I had none  Instead of fixing the old motor, I decided it was a good time to do an RN swap. I was able to source the 2.5L engine out of a 2006 Volvo S60 R. Typical mods to fit.

My car currently has just shy of 200k on the frame and transmission. The sourced motor has around 97k on it. I was also hoping to source a manual trans with the same amount of miles but i haven't had the cash or luck to snag one and make it happen yet :(

Here she is before any work :

Garage Goodies:





Here are a few pics of the new engine before I painted the valve cover:




And some new paint:




16T turbo upgrade kit for 19T hybrid from ARD:



Ported and port-matched Intake Manifold:




Modded the PCV:

The day I yanked the old engine. Here is the empty hole:



Day it got dropped in!



New Upper mount:




So i ended up using my old accessories, and with the new style crank the serpentine belt doesn't fit. I went to NAPA and found a belt that fits just perfect!:


Name: NAPA (Gates) Micro-V PN: 25 060690
Dimensions: 20mm x 1767mm OC

Finally got an R bumper and an Eggcrate grille!



I plan on getting a fresh coat of paint, upgrading the headlight and blinkers to the newer Jewel style, and a few other goodies while she is down.

Is there anyone else out there doing a swap like mine or have done one recently? I would love to hear about it! Any/all tips and tricks would be welcomed! I have plenty of sources to utilize but its always good to hear new things.

Cheers!!

-Rob
 

Just a warning to anybody whoever is looking to buy a all aluminum radiator.

The core is welded UPSIDE DOWN.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Radiator-For-Volvo-850-94-97-C70-S70-1998-V70-2004-2-3-2-4-2-5/282152062421?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D40757%26meid%3D5c61789cbd8e4810b2fdf38446d2b5e9%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D152218508251

THIS IS THE ONE TO GET
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-850-X70-Manual-93-98-Performance-Racing-aluminium-Radiator/122271258169?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D40757%26meid%3Dfb6594ff5922454ab8ec768ea505cf49%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D282261792718

Hello!

Been working on Triumph Motorcycles and SAAB Trionic7, so got some basic knowledge in CAN-com, maping, etc.

But what is needed/supported for Volvo?

Seen something about ME4 and ME7, but this is for old cars?

What is used on newer Volvos?

I own a lawicel USB, will this fix the hardware side?

What software is neeeded for editing maps and/or flasing?

Dont demand links, just names of software. 

Cheers!

Hello, this is my first ever post. So allow me to introduce myself by first stating how much i appreciate literally every follower for Volvo's for this list would have never been created without it. This list has had the help from this site, google, YouTube, FCP Euro, IPD, and even SweedSpeed, and every person that added a post to aide in this post. So please allow me to thank everyone for this post. I would also like to note that I do not claim to be a Volvo specific mechanical engineer nor an author so not everything is perfect. I would also like to say that I only added comments where the provided links missed out on, because I would really like everyone to take the time to read the posts the have already been made and I would like to give credit to the people who made so please check them out.

I will not go into my passion for Volvo too much because this post just about covers that point, and quite honestly there are plenty of posts that will just about explain that. The first I would like to point out would be this guy Benjamin Hoff who is an author for relating Taoism and how it relates to current American culture. This is the link to what I found: http://benjaminhoffauthor.com/volvo.html. What I liked about this post is how Benjamin talks about the history of Volvo and well the pure awesomeness of the Volvo 850 and how it was revolutionary from it's compact transmission, to it's performance, to the special "cripple" zones that help draw shock away from the driver and into the car in an accident. He also goes into his tune and made a list on all the things he changed on his Volvo 850. I would like to take the time now to give him a special thanks for his post definitely contributed to the most inspiration for my tune. So please take the time to look into his post it is a truly heartening read.

For the rest of this read I will use different headings, and to start I will start with Engine Limits/ Modifications.

The Weak Links

These are the links I used for a majority of basing my engine mods:

I would like to thank the user EricF for this one. I'm sure that any person who has looked into modding their P80 Volvo has at least looked into this post because it is so well written and very informative and if you have not read it yet I recommend reading it. This post talks about engine limits, transmission limits, and turbo limits plus a little extra.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=10961 .

Connecting Rods

To start I have found from various sources that the weakest link in the engine is first the connecting rods in the Volvo 5 cylinder engine, which are rated to around 350 hp. Which does not seem that high but keep in mind the Volvo 850 was meant to be a sporty family car not a race car. With this in mind you have to ask yourself what you want to do with the car. I myself wanted a weekend warrior as it's called which is a daily driver with a little fun added in the middle. Therefore for me the rods are fine for me. The main reason these rods are a problem is because of the turbocharger. Looking into the link just posted Eric talks about the limits of the 15G turbo which comes stock on all 850's in the USA except for the R which received a 16T, which is at the max of 15 psi of boost, and with improper engine management (ECU Tune) you can easily bend a rod, which I have found to be caused by two things. The first is that at high boost pressures at low RPM's causes high torque which literally bends the rods and there goes the bottom end. The other thing cause is essential the same thing but is caused by a spike in boost pressure and causes a spike in fuel/air mixture and causes to much power and therefore blows a rod. With this in mind you can safely tune pretty much tune the 15G, 16T, 18T, 19T, or 22T, as long as you have supporting mods: a sports exhaust and reliable ECU Tune. The next link are the piston heads with can handle 400 hp when i uncovered this truth i did not look into upgrading them further for that is more than enough for this car but I did put into the spreadsheet H-Beam connecting rods and Weisco forged piston heads which both can handle at least 800 hp.

Automatic Transmission

For all american 850 High Pressure Turbo (HPT) cars came automatic which can only handle close to 300 hp which is probably the biggest limiting factor in this car. To my knowledge there are two things you can do to improve this. The first is adding an auxiliary transmission oil cooler and fresh oil change. Keep in mind if you you keep the automatic gearbox the fluid will have to be changed frequently. I have not modded my car yet but i would say you have to do a fluid flush every engine oil change or at the least every other engine oil change. The alternative is to do a complete manual swap. If you look into Erics link he will talk about possible manual swaps and what he did to his car. So go check it out if interested. And if your really interested in doing an actual manual swap check out these links:

this is by Matt B on volvospeed he posted what he calls the parts bible for a manual swap and everything you will need for it:
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/78 ... nual-swap/

This is dooby who posted with complete pictures and descriptions on how to do an actual manual swap from an automatic:
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=71697

lastly this is the tricky part and that is converting the wiring harness from auto to manual because you have to change the cruise control wiring and something about the reverse light allows being on but thanks to Hank Scorpio on Turbobricks you can find pictures and descriptions and pretty much everything you need to know: 
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost. ... tcount=237

As a note I have opted to keep my car as an automatic. I would love to to rebuild my car as a manual but it does not seem worth the approximate cost of $1500. To me there are three slight benefits to a manual. The first is it is a lot more engaging in driving and more of a feeling of being one with your car which is very compelling but due to the front reel drive of the car drifting is not very practical and to me is not justified. The second is possible shaving a couple of hundredths (.01-.10) to tenths off of your time on the track. The last thing would be to add a blow off valve which sounds awesome but serves no real performance bonus, it would be pointless to add a blow off valve to an automatic because all of the pressure would be dumped as soon as you let off the gas which would create very little pressure and thus no whoosh sound.

Turbocharger
The stock turbocharger on 850 T's or T5's is the 15G which has it limit at around 15 PSI with this setting you can hit around 300 hp with proper tuning but keep in mind the turbo will be pushing it's limits and will be worn very quickly. And the same can be said about the 16T but can handle the higher boost pressures, compared to the 15G, normally but that is it's limit. With this is mind I would recommend at the least a 16T with a good ECU tune or bigger turbo like a 18T or 19T but keep in mind the bigger the turbo the harder it will be for the ECU to determine firing and fuel mixture which goes back to bending rods. so in order to keep things safe you would have to keep boost pressures low on the bigger turbos. The 16T would be recommended for those who do not want to do heavy modding. The bigger turbos, 18T or 19T, are for those who want to have a heavily modified 850.

Now on to the good stuff

The hopefully most in depth tune for a Volvo 850

The List and Stage Zero
below, or wherever attachments show up on this forum, is an excel spreadsheet which I have spent about a year putting together finding all the different things that can be done to this car with part numbers, what site to buy them, brand names, part cost, and even the reason for doing it. Some links are also added for some installations purposes. A lot of time was put into this so please don't be too judgmental but I would not mind a comment or thought that would add to the build and truly contribute to the idea behind this Volvo that will become a beast. The file has a lot of details so take your time looking at it and feel free to google some of the stuff to get more answers. The most important thing when considering this tune is making sure you are at a true and honest stage zero because this will insure engine health and longevity. I mean why work on an engine that cannot pass a leak down test which would make this not worth doing. Now would also be a good time to mention that I am doing all work myself I have done all stage zero requirements myself and have even rebuilt the head of my car with no help other than the forums found on this very post. In my opinion if you truly want to build your car you NEED to know how it works and the only way to do that is to build your car yourself. I myself have literally no experience building a car and through many hours of research and taking my time working my car I have been able to do this. So to me a lot of things on the list are self explanatory and the basic reasoning behind them is stated within the spreadsheet but I will point out a few details to consider.

Gauges

I have chosen to have a total of six gauges, which I have found to be a bit more than most, but it makes me feel like a NASCAR racer I suppose. To start I chose to go with IPD's pillar gauge and a single din gauge holder, my radio will be converted to a single gauge head unit. For a clean install and to avoid splicing radio wires I have looked into getting a CirKit Boss. It took me awhile to find these and boy was I excited. This hook up inside of your engine bay connect to your battery via circuit breaker, and plug into your fuse box ignition fuse. This is very nice because it allows for install for aftermarket circuits, in my case it will be for gauges, but plenty of people have set up fog lamps and heavy duty lights for jeeps and trucks with these. The price is expensive for these units but after installation you will have what look's like a complete factory installed unit. The Cirkit Boss I decided on was the bigger model for 3 constant 12 v wires and 4 ignition wires. I chose this one because of the constant 12 v wires all connections require a live wire so this will make for a better install because it will keep from having to splice any stock wires. Just as a note gauges require pretty much no current or really voltage for the matter so all of the gauges could be wired in series for the ignition wire (which will allow for the gauges to turn on when the car turns on) and in series for their respective live wires (the constant 12 v source). In this manner the gauges will take up one Ignition fuse leaving three left for some other circuit, and one constant 12 v fuse leaving 2 more for something. You can also note that since the gauges will barely go over 1 amp even with all of them in series there is still room to grow on that very circuit. There are some instructions in the spreadsheet and feel free to YouTube some installation videos. There is a guy who used it to install a air/fuel ratio gauge with a O2 pump that required an external circuit.

Tuning

To start with this section of the list I will note that I am not rebuilding the the connecting rods or piston heads because I feel very comfortable to doing this tune without changing out these, there are plenty of people who daily this kind of build with no problems. The reason they are added is to account for the cost for people who want to add them. The real reason most 850's blow rod's or piston head's is due to an accurate ECU tune combined with improper tuning which leads to restrictive flow and thus things blow. The next couple of things would be the R exhaust manifold which will allow better air flow into the turbo as opposed to the manifold on stock 850 turbos. The phenolic intake spacer is used to promote cool air intake some people have noticed a couple extra hp's with just this small mod. This might seem unnecessary but if I'm not rebuilding the rods or pistons then I should promote cool air to keep from producing boost spikes. Which is what leads into an IPD exhaust and IPD tune the reason I went with IPD is because they are hugely reputable and buying the exhaust with the ecu you save a $100. and its possible to wait for them to go on sale and possible still get a $100 off. Also note that the Walbro is a fuel pump good for 400 hp this is needed because the Volvo fuel pump gives out quickly around 300 hp. The injectors I chose are white Volvo injectors which are good for up to 350 cc/min, blue injectors are also rated for about the same. If you are worried about possible hp loses due to fuel starve you can go with green injectors good for 450 cc/min. The transmission cooler is made by Mocal a specialized performance oil cooler manufacturer's. Because the kit is made from me all the individual parts are listed to find online. The specific site I used to find all the parts was this: http://www.batinc.net/mocal.htm. The install link is below in the additional information section.

Suspension

The strut kit is from FCP Euro, and is a KONI suspension kit. KONI is well known for it's performance so I thought it best to go with the sport style. FCP includes all new bolts and hardware for both front and rear installation, you can also find the installation video on the website where the kit is found. The springs are for lower ride height and better drive-ability. The mounts, transmission and engine, are also for drive-ability and handling. The engine mounts are OEM rated but not technically OE, they have good reviews so I decided on these. The Polyurethane Torque Kit from IPD gives a slightly bigger under Transmission mount which will create less shaking and smoother shifts. It also contains a firewall mount for shaking, and a upper engine stabilizer (NOTE: this is added stabilization you will still need the upper engine mount).

Turbo

The turbo I chose was the 19T because the 18T is a pain to find and ARD Tuning has the whole set up for the same price as a 16T so it will allow for future mods if need be. Specifically for me I will get the 19T with spool control to keep boost pressures from spiking. The set I'm getting will include an already set waste-gate actuator, and compressor bypass valve (CBV) with a 10 lb spring which will handle the rapid change in pressures. ARD sells these two components individual for those who already have a bigger turbo or do not want to upgrade. The stick turbo control valve (TCV) tends to fail quickly so I am getting the ARD TCV to handle a bigger load and it will last longer. I also opted for the angled flange which will promote the exiting of exhaust from the turbo and keep from spiking boost pressure. If bending a rod is a concern you can buy the 16T turbo housing and get the corresponding billet wheel. Remember all TDO4HL turbos are all compatible with each other, or at least the exhaust housings, all that needs changing is the turbo housing to fit the bigger billet. I would also like to say the 15G and 16T are very similar in flow characteristics so there is not a lot to gain in going from a 15G to a 16T, thou a good ECU tune will definitely give good results with a 15G or 16T. If you can try to buy the angled turbo exhaust because it allows for better air flow out of the turbo which will keep boost pressures from spiking and allow for more into the turbo. As a note my 19T will be tuned towards 18-20 PSI which is low for this turbo and may not be as fast as the 16T in getting up to speed but the 19T will start pulling like a train in 3rd gear and I will eventually zoom past an equivalent tune but with a 16T. There are options for a bigger Inter-cooler but they yield so little gain for such an expensive part it is not worth it. I remember IPD selling a d088 inter-cooler, and on their site they had a test run comparing the stock vs the d088 and there was literally no difference. IPD no longer sells this item. Instead of getting a new inter-cooler I would recommend IPD's Reverse Inter-cooling Kit which to their research will allow for an extra 3 pounds of boost, it is also a foot shorter than stock inter-cooling which will lead to a better throttle response.

Silicone Piping

Silicone piping is technically part of the stage zero but due to the amount silicone piping I found I made it's own section. The reason for silicone piping is to handle high temperatures and high boost pressures. The piping includes radiator pipes, expansion tank pipes, turbo coolant pipes, and TCV lines. The Turbo inlet hose is an upgraded inlet air mass meter to turbo connection. This hose is a bit shorter and has less curves therefore creating a more free flowing system and will allow a little better fuel economy and possible a couple extra horse power.

Sound System

I would like to state that this mod list is catered to my needs and my cars needs. For example the sound system added and upholstery update is for personal use because my car is a little rough in the interior and I'm looking into changing it out. The sound system will be easy to change out please note that sedans have two sound decks on the back dash and wagons have pillar speakers in the back. I myself have a sedan and have the back deck speakers which are reported to be 6x9 but that requires special mods and a 5x7 fits better if interested check out this link by blackyrd on volvoforums: http://www.volvo-forums.com/t21128-ster ... -wagon.htm . I have also changed the double din sound system to a single din touchscreen GPS navigation system. I did this to also fit a single din gauge cluster underneath the radio system. Some other things to keep in mind are ohm rating on speakers. The ohm affects power output which is directly related to frequency, what we hear, so if the frequency is messed up then the sound will be bad. So keep in mind the different kinds of speakers there are and how you would have to wire your speakers.

Upholstery

the upholstery I couldn't find too much on other than on YouTube and that related to basic carpet installation on cars in general. I have also added into the upholstery cost sound dampening material because if you have noticed like me is that older cars tend to make a little more noise so to cut on that I added sound dampening. Because I may not even upholster my seats I included the about average cost of each set. The front seats are two individual and the back seat is a whole big seat.

Right that just about sums it up I could ramble on for days about various other things to do and what not to do and other things that would be pointless but that would take a lot more time then I care to mention. I have looked into what I need and I just thought it would be cool to put all this information in one spot. I have looked through so many forums and countless comparisons to see what would be best and this is what I got. The main reason I wanted to post this was to put an end to the adventure that it was to come up with the best tune for the car that I love so much. Please feel free to comment or ask questions I have way more information then what I am posting. I cannot give all my secrets in one swoop, that would be no fun.

Additional Information:

If you cannot find a part number on the actual part or on any forum check out this website they offer full diagrams with labeled numbers, their description, part numbers, and the average price of the parts, on any Volvo ever made:
http://www.volvopartswebstore.com

This link is for YouTube DIY's on fixing Volvo P80 cars. This is through the courtesy of FCPeuro.com aka FCP Groton for all their hard work and excellent honest parts. I have personally rebuilt my entire front suspension, water pump, and shocks, through the use of their parts and videos.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... 983CE8F25F

I also have to give a shout out to Robert DIY who is also on YouTube. This guy deserves true praise. He has devoted a lot of his life to helping Volvo owners so my thanks to you sir and I just noticed today that you are in the hospital so I hope you get better man. He has everything on his channel from simple things like tips to completely rebuilding your head which is what aided me in my rebuild.
https://www.youtube.com/user/RSpi007

I also want to thank IPD they have a lot of quality information and this is their YouTube channel:
https://www.youtube.com/user/IpdVolvo

I also recommend checking out ARD Tuning for Performance parts they offer a lot of quality performance parts for a decent price. For me they have the R exhaust manifold and 19T turbo which are both hard to come by for a good price.
http://www.ardideas.com/

Transmission Oil Cooler install: http://www.___.com/forums ... hp?t=37869

Robert DIY's Head Replacement for Volvo 850: http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technologyi ... gasket.htm
-this is a step by step with all tools, parts, and chemicals/gasket maker needed.

If you plan on going to a junkyard to find a used turbocharger and want to know what Volvo has what turbocharger check out this link from FCP Euro. It has all of that information plus some more about why they fail and what to avoid when switching to a bigger turbo.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/posts/volv ... swap-guide

If you can manage befriend the guy at your local Bap Geon Import Auto Parts. I have and it's not that it has saved me money, thou the parts after the discount I get is about the same for online parts, but that I get the parts the next day for free as opposed to ordering online and get them a week later.

SPREADSHEET FILE:

Stage Zero.xlsx

So... been awhile since I've posted on the forums, but I figure it'll be best to ask all my dumb new-to-P2 upgrade questions here than on facebook.

Let's start with the vital info... 2004 XC70, 152k miles, very well maintained by the various members of my family it has been passed around by. I want to make it faster and handle a bit better, but nothing too crazy.

So, for starters, will a downpipe for a P2R bolt up? Need something thick and catless in my lift. OBX or... ?

I think I've got the P2R airbox swap figured out, just need some reducers to make the tubing fit the turbo inlet (I have heard the mitsubishi inlet is smaller than K24) and make existing MAF fit in the airbox hole for the time being until it's tuned.

Turbo wise, what is stock on an 04 LPT? 13g? 14t? Anyway, I have an R manifold and 19t that I was going to rebuild and shove in the S70 AWD that I could redirect for use here.

I personally don't like the FMIC look at all on P2s, so a drop in would be the way to go, anyone's P2 drop in better than everyone else's? 

Tuning... ARD, right guys? 

Suspension wise, I don't know if I want to lower it, kinda like the taller stance. Lifting may be on the table in fact, with the Bad Swede kit, although I want to know how stiff they are first. OE V70 AWD springs would work to lower a bit I assume? Would I need non-XC control arms if I lower it at all? 

But mainly sways, the debate being between OE R sways (V70Rs are larger than S60Rs, right?) or iPd sways. I do <3 my S70's iPd sways. Endlinks of some kind, duh.

Solid mounting the upper engine mount bar to turn it into a strut brace, if that actually works? 

It's definitely getting my 18x8 TDR 1.2s since the Mich PSSes on them are basically bald, new tire size will depend on what I decide to do for ride height.

What P2 brakes bolt on? R stuff probably, but what about the bigger XC90 brakes?

hi people just signed up need some advice iv got a volvo c30 d3 2011 TD...

just wondering if i can upgrade the intercooler does the st one fit or is that only for the t5....

wanting to do it as debadged the top grill and cant get hold of a lower grille so a good looking intercooler will do...


any tips and tricks will help 

heres what she looks like now 

Does anybody know the purpose of this valve?

How it works? And is it safe to deleted by replacement with a simple bolt?

I am just after an engine overall and I need to be sure that will not face any lubrication issues, due to this valve that connecting the oil pressure side with oil sump. 

Hey everyone, I could really use some help.

my 2001 V70XC spun the number 5 rod bearing and toasted the 2.4T that was in it, so this past weekend I found a replacement and put it in, in my parents yard with the help of some friends lol. It's a 2004 RN 2.3 T5 with blue injectors and 16T turbo from a V70. Everything I know about this swap, and these cars in general, says that this should be a completely direct swap, and while it won't perform any better than the 2.4T without a tune it will run totally fine. 

Well, mine isn't. It idles almost perfectly, but runs almost as though it hits a rev limiter at 1500rpm,  sometimes it will rev to 2000, but never any more. I have tried replacing the plugs, the coil packs, unplugging the maf (improves idle, but no other change) switching to the stock orange injectors and back, switching cam position sensor, crank position sensor, unplugging the front O2 sensor, unplugging the coolant temp sensor, all to no avail. It still does the same thing. It runs on all cylinder too, as you can hear a change in how it runs by unplugging any of the coil packs. We also tried changing the VVT solenoid, just because we were running out of options, and again, nothing. If you hold the throttle wide open it will backfire and spit bad enough that there were flames exiting the exhaust tip at one point. I have just about run out of options at this point and could really use any other opinions that people have, cheers

Billy

can anyone please lay a link/pics of result to these bench flow tests that I've seen many chat/blabber about in threads but yet I ve never once posted ANY results of these tests? Never R 04 and up  vs older japanifold 99-03 vs aftermarket apt log style exhaust manifolds ...i have a feeling it never happened other than people posting that it did...NOT LOOKING FOR LINKS TO THREADS OF DISCUSSIONS  "JUST PROVEN RESULTS OF THE COMPARISONS "  thanks

i would like to lay a bombshell if there is no documented proof.  

I got the snabb intake spacer. Do I need the oem gasket too? I assumed no, but wanted to confirm. 

Thanks 

As many of you know, I've been waiting to pick up my rn motor/trans, and had the "beefing up an n whiteblock" thread going.  I thank everyone who contributed to that thread as it surely helped, but I feel that many people stopped following, because I didn't even have the motor yet.

now, for whoever is still reading this book, I finally picked everything up yesterday!  I'm starting a new thread so hopefully people will be more likely to help, as I actually have an rn now!

ok on to business!  The motor seems to be in decent shape, but that's just by looking it over.  Some cobwebs and maybe one or two leaks.  My biggest concern is the lines running to and from the turbo, they seem to be rusted pretty good.  I checked the exhaust turbine and compressor wheel, both spin freely by hand.  I was surprised, however, to see a "TD04HL-16T" on the compressor housing.  I thought the 02 2.3 came with the 19t, no?  After a compression test, I'll determine whether or not I'm gonna drop it in as is, or do a rebuild with at least forged rods.

So I've got a 1992 240 wagon, all stock no mods. I found a nice little turbo at a local junkyard and I'm considering adding it. The car did not come turbocharged from the factory, so I wondered if the extra cylinder pressure could potentially damage my engine? If anyone has tried this or successfully done this, what worked?  What didn't work? 

I am considering changing out the suspension on the S60R. I am not able to find info on OEM spring rates, only that people say they are very soft. Does anyone have the OE spring rates?  As for the dampers currently on the car, they are OE with 102k on them. It does not feel like any of them are bad or failing but I know they are typically good for about 100k. Are the 4c dampers really as stiff as people are claiming? Based on what I have read and from what I understand wouldn't it mean they wouldn't work so great with a soft spring / ARB setup. I could be wrong?

I did read I could just cut the wires and splice in a resistor to fool the system with a neutral signal. So going aftermarket coilovers is not out of the question. What spring rates have people tried and or like / don't like? Has anyone valved their dampers for specific ratios? Do we know if 4c has flat ride built in? Lastly how worth it is getting a bigger rear sway? I see IPD has a neutral bias setup which I am interested by. Does anyone have experience with their bigger "track" setup to induce mild oversteer? With how not wonderful the awd system is as a whole I'm not sure how good of an idea it is to adjust understeer / oversteer balance with the ARB's vs shock/ spring setup.

Things to note* 

-The roads in Austin are not great so I will be keeping OE ride height 

-I will want to track the car eventually but I have never done so before.

-I do not mind NVH due to bracing or other mods which would help the suspension and steering. Though I would like to have the ability to DD the car as well so I wouldn't want it to be full track spec'd.

-I am currently considering custom dampers and a ground control coil over kit with custom springs - - but would gladly accept input on people's experiences with off the shelf kits like KW's

Thanks in advance!

Okay,the newb is back.  My question for today is this.

I saw some nice aftermarket wheels for my 850 T5 wagon. I already know that the pattern is 5x108mm with a desired offset

of +35 to +38mm  These wheels are 18x8, 5x107.95 with a +40mm offset. I know that I can use 5mm spacers,but what about the bolt pattern being off by .05?

Thanks again!! 

Looking at a '96 960 running a M90H2 which I am really interested in...however the owner says it won't pass emissions because the OBDII circuit won't "go ready" due to the missing auto-trans controller (TCM).  My understanding is that these cars run Motronic 4.4 like some 850s which I believe is a relatively well understood ECU.  My question is, how can this be spoofed to get it to pass emissions?  Options I have thought of but was hoping for feedback on:

1. Reflash the ECU to make it a "manual" ECU - not sure if it is possible or if anyone has done this.

2. Spoof the TCM inputs to the ECU.  I see that the TCM sends a indicator light input, a "torque limiting" input for shifts, and an "idle up" indication for park/neutral vs. drive.  I am thinking the last signal is how the ECU detects if you are in drive or park.  Anyone tried spoofing this signal to trick the ECU?

3. Run a European manual ECU from a euro M90 960 - not sure if this would meet US emissions.

Other ideas from folks?   Thanks in advance for the help!

Brian